#1 Hot Topic in our world is hair TONING
To say this has become the #1 performed service in salon (apart from balayage of course) is an understatement. Today not a day goes by that we don’t tone hair, but do we really know why we tone?
1. Neutralising Brassy Tones
2. Going Platinum
3. Pre-toning Hair
4. Refreshing Hair Colour
5. Base Breaking
6. Not Just for Blondes
Toning works best on lighter hair depths or hair that’s just been lightened, be careful not to overtone and always keep to a visual development process. There will also be times when toning formulations require modifications. WHY! Factors such as; the clients’ natural underlying pigment, remembering lighteners have to lift through various layers of underlying pigment to get to the required depth, once the required underlying pigment is achieved you can make an accurate assessment on your chosen toner.
Neutralising Brassy Tones
If this is the number one priority to eliminate those warm brassy tones in the hair then we suggest using toners that contain a light ash reflect. Try using Couture Silk Demi Permanent 10.01 or our very popular Couture Silk Permanent .11 Frost mixed with .22 Lilac. Leyton House Head of Global Education Dale Smith showcases the results gained from using Frost and Lilac.
Click VIEW PROFILE to see the recipe.
One lesson we’ve learnt is always consult the Leyton House Professional Colour Wheel to gauge the correct shade to neutralise the existing colour and bring out the tone you want. Download the Colour Wheel from our Resource hub.
Going Platinum
For some clients’ their ultimate dream is to have ultra cool platinum blonde hair, just like Cara Delevingne, Jennifer Lawrence or Rita Ora. Remember to offer your client the best in home hair care maintenance to keep their newly platinum locks rich, shiny, and outstanding. Use the Couture Care Silver Shampoo now with increased violet pigment to keep it cool.
To create amazing platinum or grey results hair must be lightened to a level 10 (palests Yellow) or lighter.
For best results we need to modify our mixing ratio from the usual 1:2 to:-
1. Mix 1:1.5 with 1.5% LH Developer with your choice of Frost, Lilac, Champagne, 10.117, 10.18, and any mix of the colours mentioned to achieve desired result without over toning.
These shades may process quickly and should be watched closely.
Always applied to damp towel dried hair
2. Demi Toners - Mixed 1:2 with desired colour, 10.01, .002, and .000, and any combination of these shades
3. Color Convert - Mixed 1:2 with 10.117, or 10.18 to desired outcome
Always apply to damp towel dried hair
Pre-Toning Hair
When you pre-tone hair you’re basically creating an even canvas to eliminate unwanted warmth that may compromise the final colour result. Pre-toning is applied BEFORE the colour service and will keep hair colour consistent as it fades out. This is generally a visual process development up to 10 minutes. The perfect preparation.
Refreshing Hair Colour
What a brilliant way to refresh your clients hair colour without reapplying a permanent hair colour.
If you’re clients hair has begun to fade and they don’t want a full head of highlights, then Couture Silk Demi Permanent Toners are your go to collections to balance out the new growth and faded areas creating super shine and gloss. As a general rule we mix 1:2 however, if your client has finer hair we recommend modifying to a 1:1.5 with 1.5% LH Developer or 2.8% Demi Permanent Activating Crème
Base Breaking
Base breaking may occur due to the clients’ natural depth and hair texture to eliminate this some modifications to developers may be necessary. Don’t worry, this will all be covered, keep reading.
Breaking the base, or also known as Base Break. A technique used to blend hair that is not lightened in-between foils we can disguise or eliminate the demarcation from darker roots that have not been lightened.
To do a base break, hair colour is applied after highlighting to lightly soften the roots. This can be done and the shampoo basin. The colour is only on the roots for a maximum of 20 minutes so as not to completely alter the colour, or expose too much of the underlying warmth in your natural hair colour.
Here is our recommendation:- 1. Mix 1 part Couture Silk colour to either 1.5 parts or 2 part 1.5% LH Developer and process for 15 minutes visually
For more information and toning modifications download the ADVANCED TONING GUIDE
Not Just for Blondes
As hairdressers we LOVE it when a client walks in and wants to have a completely new look or is a little more adventurous than our everyday hair wearer. Leyton House has the right colour collection to give a client what they want.
Lets showcase examples of creative toning from global hairdressers.
Click on the instagram View Profile to view the recipes.