Lets face it, we’re in an ageing market and Your clients are going to start seeing those greys start appearing. There are really only 2 choices, cover it up or embrace it.
As we know grey hair becomes coarse, wirey and can be difficult to cover, so if you want to cover it up that great, but you also want to soften the hair too. Therefore, we need to be proficient and confident in our Couture Silk product knowledge and its best practices for covering grey hair. Nothing is better than rebooking a satisfied client.
COVER IT UPWhat is grey hair? ‘When hair turns grey the pigmentation producing cells (melanocytes) have died. The material to produce pigments is still sent to the follicle. Instead of producing pigment, it produces cuticle instead.’ says Dale Smith Leyton House Head of Education USA.
We interviewed our top educators and ambassadors from around the world for their top tips and advice
Simon Crawford – Global Education Mentor
1. Hair analysis is key – Here’s my Simon Says Top Tip – 'I call it a #hairhack' says Simon.
Take a photo of your clients hair with the removal base level swatch from the colour chart. Next turn that photo in black and white to really get a gain an idea of your clients natural base level and existing colour.
This is going to help you choose the correct shade.
2. When the hair is fine to medium I use LH Developer 3% 10vol - YES IT WORKS even with only 3% due to the Renewal Complex (insert technology link) in the Couture Silk colour. However, if the client has stubborn, coarse and wirey hair then 6% LH Developer is my go to and mix 1:1 (Equal parts colour and developer) then develop for 40 minutes so I know extra colour has penetrated.
3. My final tip. Try mixing Couture Silk Illuminates to your grey coverage colour mix, my favourite is .2 Pearl Violet Illuminates to cool down colour
E.g 77.0 + 7.32 (equal parts) + 10% .2 Illuminates + 6% LH Developer.
Watch Ep 2 of the Simon Says Tutorials
Dale Smith, Head of Education USA
Grey hair is produced when the Melanocytes pigment producing cells die. When these cells no longer produce pigment, the follicle uses the material formally used to produce pigment to make more cuticle. Humans typically have 4 - 6 layers of cuticle. When pigment production stops, these layers may build up to 12 layers. This is what causes resistant grey.
The thicker the cuticle layer count the more resistant grey!
3. Choose the Extra Naturals and add a small quantity of base to gain maximum colour penetration and coverage.
Rachel Fenwick – Global Couture Head of Education UK
1. Don’t fall back into thinking you have to add half base into your fashion shades if it’s less than 70% grey and normal hair texture just mix and apply your target shade.
2. Always use scales when covering grey to ensure 100% accuracy of coverage every application.
3. Ensure product is applied liberally and hair is saturated with colour to ensure full even coverage.
4. My favourite grey coverage recipe for levels 7 and below is the Liquors and Velvets mixed together because they contain have a triple tonal reflect you achieve beautiful global coverage! The more tone you can add into grey hair the better it will cover.
Richard Lopez – Brand Manager USA
1. Always start colouring at the most grey area
2. Increase processing time to maximise pigment penetration (40mins)
3. 10vol (3%) is a great benefit to cover grey due to it being more gentle and allowing for better hair condition
Going naturally grey is nothing shameful and in fact can really suit some ladies. You’ve no doubt seen some of your younger clients lately embracing the trend. We’d like to share with you work from our Leyton House hairdresser that were kind enough to post their work on our LH Support Group Facebook page in support of the Silver Hair Colour Campaign, thank you to everyone who posts back in September 2020. The standout collection feature is our Twilights .117 series.
SILVER HAIR DON’T CARE
Lucy Fisher from the United Kingdom's mum embracing her beautiful blended natural grey. Recipe: Couture Silk Twilights 10.117 + 9.117 + 3%
Root melt: 20g 5.11 10g 4.0 60g 1.5%. Mid-ends: 20g 10.117 +40g 1.5% 20 minutes. Aftercare Rhassoul Revitalise Energizing Shampoo and Conditioner and All Purpose 6 in 1 Spray